In the early months of the year, under the Oaxacan sun, Zapotec master potter and VAWAA artist, Macrina, along with the women of San Marcos, gathers red clay to sculpt into forms that carry generations of tradition. This clay becomes the foundation for traditional tools like the comal—a flat, round pottery piece used to make tortillas, memelas, or quesadillas. For Macrina, the comal is more than a cooking tool; it is a bridge connecting the past, present, and future while reimagining her heritage.
In San Marcos Tlapazola, Oaxaca (Mexico), creating a comal is a skill passed down through generations of Zapotec women. For Macrina, the comal represents an opportunity to share stories and reimagine traditions beyond her village. Her innovative approach transforms comals from utilitarian objects into centerpieces, serving plates, or even works of art. Through these innovations, Macrina honors her mother’s teachings and expands the possibilities of red clay through offering apprenticeships in her studio.
The comal, a symbol of tradition and heritage, is more than a craft for Macrina—it is an extension of her identity. Dressed in traditional Zapotec garb, she proudly introduces herself in her native tongue, a reflection of her 48 years of mastery. Guided from an early age by her mother’s teachings, Macrina embraced the art of indigenous pottery, which remains central to her work.
Macrina’s vision aligns with over 30+ master ceramicists worldwide who host VAWAA apprenticeships, sharing their crafts and traditions with new generations. Through her own VAWAA apprenticeships, she invites enthusiasts to engage with the living tradition of red clay. Macrina believes Zapotec pottery is a gift to share. Speaking with her offers a glimpse of timeless wisdom as she vividly describes the journey of clay—from the hillsides to its final form—bringing a generational craft to life.
Shaping the Past and Future: A VAWAA Experience in Immersive Pottery
Apprenticeships with Macrina begin at the heart of Zapotec pottery, where the earth meets the artist. From January to March, Macrina and the women of San Marcos journey into the mountains to forage for yellow and red clay, the best time to collect raw material before the rains. Using costales, or heavy sacks, they gather enough clay for the year, which then undergoes thorough preparation to ensure its transformation into memorable pieces.
At the mountain’s base, the clay dries on sunlit patios under the Oaxacan sun, its moisture slowly evaporating until it is ready for shaping. Each step, from preparation to shaping, reflects the skill and tradition ingrained in every piece. Macrina uses traditional tools like leather scraps, gourd shells, and dried corncobs instead of a potter’s wheel to form the clay, echoing her heritage. She smooths imperfections, patches weak points, and balances weight with a practiced understanding of the clay’s language.
Every creation moves toward becoming a timeless vessel reflecting both tradition and artistry. Carefully shaped and meticulously prepared, it undergoes its final transformation in a sacred fire and clay ritual under the open sky. In this process, Macrina bridges the past and future, one vessel at a time, offering apprentices a rare opportunity to learn these traditions firsthand from the source.
Craft Your Place in the Story of Zapotec Pottery
The tradition of red clay is not confined to San Marcos—it is a living practice that welcomes others to engage, learn, and carry its story forward. As a VAWAA apprentice with Macrina, you are immersed in a creative journey that explores the rich traditions of Zapotec red clay ceramics, offering the rare chance to learn directly from the artisans who have preserved this craft for generations.
As a VAWAA apprentice, you not only observe but actively engage in every step of the process. Under Macrina’s guidance, you begin at the source of it all, hiking to the nearby hillsides to excavate clay and experience the resilience poured into each piece. Each step, from shaping the clay to using primitive tools like smooth leather, gourd shells and dried corn cobs, connects you to centuries of tradition. The finishing touches of glazing each red clay piece paired with the delicate firing process highlight the intricate and detailed process of their craft. Beyond the hands-on craft, sharing traditional meals and building relationships with the women of San Marcos Tlapazola add a deeply personal layer to the experience. Individual stories are shared and the historical significance of the Zapotec community fills the atmosphere.
As one VAWAA guest said, “This experience was not just about creating art; it was about connecting with a rich cultural heritage and learning from a master artisan.”
Decades ago, San Marcos Tlapazola was a quiet village, its pottery known only to neighboring towns. Thanks to her leadership, the artistry of Zapotec women has reached a global stage. By opening her community to the world, she has ensured that these long-held traditions are preserved, celebrated, and shared. Macrina’s legacy ensures the Zapotec heritage lives on and through every apprenticeship, she invites others to become part of this enduring narrative.
Macrina is more than an artist—she is a legend of culture and a catalyst for empowerment. The dedication she embodies, the resilience and innovation of craft makes her a transformative Zapotec woman, proud of her roots. Her craft is alive and constantly evolving. Every piece exists as a source for inspiration for anyone who honors and appreciates the ceramic craft. It is a hands-on invitation to delve into the rich heritage of Zapotec women, learn their pottery traditions and immerse all your curiosity in a place deeply imbued by tradition.
To immerse yourself in Macrina’s legacy and book a transformative 6-day VAWAA apprenticeship, click here. You can learn more about VAWAA by checking out their blog, website, and Instagram. They also offer a newsletter with weekly travel inspiration from across the globe.
Photos courtesy of VAWAA
